Biosecurity sounds so substantial and technical, doesn't it? As a word freak, I adore it because number one, the word has such an important "feel"; and number two, it's just a fancy word that describes basic and logical principles.

Simply put, biosecurity combines management practices that are used to prevent the introduction (and spreading) of disease and parasites. Every time you practice good hygiene with your animals, dispose of dead animals properly, or for example, keep your new rabbits in an area away from the main rabbitry for a while, you're practicing biosecurity.

Keep in mind that the size of your herd, flock, or fold is of no consequence; it only takes one animal to introduce disease or parasites.

While biosecurity practices can control or prevent many issues, it doesn't work for everything. There are certain diseases that don't show outward signs until much later down the road. So sometimes livestock owners will opt to have animals being brought onto their property tested by a veterinarian.

 

#1. Quarantine or Isolation

It sounds like a punishment, doesn't it? I assure you that this is actually far from the truth. Personally, I believe that thorough quarantine practices are one of the best defenses we have for preventing introduction (and, therefore, progression) of disease in our livestock. 

I won't even try to guess about accurate percentages, but as a livestock owner, I feel like it's safe to say that it comes close to being the ultimate biosecurity practice for our place. How long animals should be kept in quarantine is up to the individual, but the least amount of time recommended is 14 days -- and 30 days is optimal.

Which Animals Should Be Quarantined?

• Any animals new to the farm -- There should be never be a question in this case -- new livestock brought to your homestead should be quarantined. Every time. The animals' original home may have seemed perfect in every way. But we can't see what is happening on the inside of them at this moment. Better safe than sorry (I know you've heard that before).
• Any returning animals that left the property for a show, to be bred, etc. Keep this in mind: animals that are involved in shows include animals from all over the county - or country - have the potential of being exposed to diseases (or alternate strains of those diseases) that they may have never been exposed to before. In this case, their immune systems are especially compromised because they may have little or no resistance to it. 
• Sick animals -- Even animals that are showing small (perhaps early) signs of illness should be quarantined. It might seem dramatic, but the truth is that it can't hurt anything and it might save your entire herd or flock.

 

#2 Practice Good Hygiene

• Restrict or limit visitors. Unless there's some pressing reason to have an outsider in your animal pens, simply avoid it. This is actually one scenario that's easier than it sounds. One good example, my friends that keep chickens don't have much of an interest in handling in visiting mine. Unless, of course, they were purchasing some and even then I can meet them somewhere else to hand the birds off. In the case of larger livestock such as horses, cows, goats, pigs, etc, they can be brought into a common area such as the driveway to be loaded up. This is much more preferable to having people traipse through the pens or pasture. In the case of my grandchildren wanting to visit with the animals, ours are the only livestock they are exposed to so there's no biological threat.
• On occasion your animal equipment may end up outside of your place at a show or perhaps someone borrows it for their animals. Be sure to clean everything thoroughly before you use it around or on your animals (example: wool clippers come to mind).
• If you've been at another farm or handing outside animals, change your clothes, your boots, and wash your hands before attending to yours. Or better yet keep your home farm clothes separate from your "off property" clothes.

 

#3 Dispose of Deceased Animals Properly

There are several ways to safely handle the carcasses of deceased animals:

• A renderer can remove it from your property.
• You can burn it.
• You can bury it -- at least three feet deep and first check with local ordinances for limitations if applicable.
• Composting a carcass can be another alternative. But it will need to be placed into a "hot" compost pile that reaches at least 130 degrees. Of course, the bones will remain.

 

Other Biosecurity Practices

• Limiting outside contact with outside animals as much as possible, which might include broadening the space between shared fence lines between your animals and those next door.
• Think twice -- three times if you have to -- before bringing home any animal that looks to be healthy, yet the others around it are questionable. If pasture, pen, or cage mates showed signs of lethargy, diarrhea, runny or crusty noses, abscesses, or are limping. Leave the one who "looks" healthy behind, as well. 

If you do find yourself facing an outbreak and you feel that you can get a handle on the problem yourself, the disease should be reported to your veterinarian. Communication goes a long way in helping local veterinarians and homesteaders alike.

On a final note, don't forget that you're a potential biohazard for other homesteads, too! Please remember to respect biosecurity practices that others have in place on their properties, as well.