Preparing Your Cool Shirt Design

• 1). Choose the type of shirt you want to make. A classic button-down shirt has a shirt collar, button front placket, set-in sleeves, button sleeve cuffs and a shirt-tail hem bottom. You can choose to make a stylized shirt with feminine fit details such as contoured side seams or front and back princess seams. These seams separate the bodice into two separate pattern pieces, oftentimes start at the armhole and are shaped toward the bottom hem.
  
  
• 2). Sketch your shirt design on your sketch pad. Draw any changes to your fit details. For example, a form-fitting shirt such as a corset-inspired bodice can use dressmaker techniques by adding boning inserts. Your design can include a shaped V neckline stemming from the collar and finishing at the cleavage. You can also choose to add a self-fabric mini ruffle neckline border.
  
  
• 3). Continue adding to your sketch by drawing your design changes to your collar, sleeve cuffs or front placket, which is the fabric layer located at the center of your shirt where your button holes are made. You can also add a chest pocket. Alter your sleeve's shape, such as a bishop sleeve, which has added fabric fullness at the cuff, or change its length to a three-fourths sleeve, which finishes below the elbow.
  
  
• 4). Choose your fabric such as cotton poplin, sheeting, broadcloth, madras or oxford. You can also incorporate patterns such as pinstripes or printed cotton patterns.
  
  
• 5). Choose your trims such as buttons or replace with hook and eye front closures. Your button size will impact your button-hole spacing at your front placket and sleeve cuffs.
  
  
• 6). Purchase a pre-made shirt pattern, which you will be altering according to your design. It is best to work with a pattern that has similar design features, such as altered sleeves or fit details.
  
  Although you can make your own paper patterns, this process is challenging. For example, a shirt collar pattern is made from two separate pieces, which are the collar and the shirt collar band. These pieces must be exact to ensure the collar stitches exactly onto your neckline seam. The shirt collar also needs to roll from the band seam to sit around your neck comfortably.
  
  

Making Your Cool Shirt Design

• 1). Trace the pre-made patterns onto pattern paper with a dark pencil. Copy all necessary construction markings such as notches, which are your guides when aligning fabric pieces prior to stitching and seam allowances onto your pattern. Keep the basic pattern for future use and reference.
  
  
• 2). Alter the pattern according to your design. Use your ruler as well as your French curve ruler for your shaped contours. Add seam allowances to any separated pattern pieces such as princess seams as well as notches. Cut out your pattern with your scissors.
  
  
• 3). Make a muslin sloper of your shirt design. Although this is optional, it is best to test your design construction on sample fabric prior to cutting your project material. The term sloper is an industry term for the first fit pattern, and muslin is inexpensive lightweight sample fabric that is used to make first samples as well as for draping.
  
  
• 4). Pin your pattern pieces with your straight pins to your muslin and cut out with your fabric scissors. Pin your fabric parts together and fit on your dress form. Mark your button placement on your front placket and your fit adjustments with your tailor's chalk on your muslin.
  
  You can opt to run a long straight stitch with your sewing machine and construct your shirt. Carefully try on your muslin sloper to ensure your shirt fits. Mark any stitching changes on your sloper.
  
  
• 5). Repeat step four until you are satisfied with your shirt's fit. Pin your patterns to your project's fabric. If you are working with delicate or lightweight cotton fabric, pin your fabric onto the seam allowance area. Lightly mark your button-hole placement on your front placket fabric piece. Cut out your fabric with your fabric scissors.
  
  
• 6). Stitch your shirt's front and back panel pieces, starting at the shoulder seams, followed by the side seams. Refer to your sloper during construction. It is recommended to pin your fabric parts, such as sleeves, to your shirt body to avoid fabric shifting during construction.
  
  
• 7). Change your machine's straight stitch foot to your button-hole attachment and stitch your button holes. Hand sew your buttons with your sewing needle and thread. Cut away all loose threads prior to wearing your cool shirt.